Reflections on a month in India
When I told family members of my plans to embark on this six-month Spice Odyssey, the country they were most concerned about was India. My mother warned me to brush my teeth only with bottled water and bought me a stash of anti-diarrheal pills to take daily, even if I didn’t have any stomach troubles. My grandfather pulled me aside and said I could trust the people of Malaysia and Indonesia, but Indians would surely cheat me. Then he mimed a knife with his finger and drew it across his throat.
I still don’t know what my grandfather meant by that gesture, if I risked a violent death at the hands of a knife-wielding mugger, or something a little less sinister. And he was wrong about Malaysia by the way. In Penang, Bama and I were both swindled out of 20 ringgit just to enter a fort with nothing inside.
At this point I want to address the perception that India is filthy. Yes, men can regularly be spotted urinating in the street, but India is not an unhygienic wasteland where hapless travellers die of dysentery by the truckload. And the filthiness, like the distribution of wealth, is not evenly spread around the country. This statement applies right down to a pedestrian’s experience at street level. Although the seafront promenade at Pondicherry is dutifully swept on a regular basis, its northern end has a low wall that provides relief for men who cannot wait. I do not know if they go in front of the French consulate to give their former masters the finger.
This leg of the Spice Odyssey has taken Bama and I on an unforgettable journey through the southernmost portion of India, across four states and one union territory (with a brief stop in Kolkata on the way out). While I am aware of the vast differences between north and south, I’d like to share a few things I have learned about this complex, infuriating and awe-inspiring country.
India is deeply spiritual
Considering that their homeland is the bastion of Hinduism and the setting for much of Buddha’s life, it’s no wonder that many Indians take their faith very seriously. Hindus occasionally invite holy men to perform ceremonies (puja) to bless the household, ward off sickness, make sure the car or elevator works properly… for every need or circumstance, there is a puja.
I was also struck by the reverence that Indians have for their religious sanctuaries. Visitors are generally expected to remove their shoes not just in Hindu temples, but also before entering churches and synagogues. At San Thome Basilica in Chennai – built over the tomb of the Apostle St. Thomas – we went barefoot to visit the crypt chapel, where mass was being held in the most beautiful, poetic Tamil. We stood in awe as the sound of melodious hymns and the priest’s booming voice echoed off the walls of the brightly-lit chapel. Something stirred deep in my consciousness; I couldn’t help tearing up in an atmosphere of such genuine devotion.
India has some of the best vegetarian food on earth
And this is sometimes found in the unlikeliest of places. Bama and I ate two heaps of lip-smacking biryani at a restaurant in Karnataka, just off the highway between Chitradurga and Bangalore. I loved the bold flavours, the complex blend of spices, and the fact that it could be so filling without any meat. In Madurai, we sampled a ten-dish vegetarian thali for 100 rupees (about $1.50 US), including papadum, white rice, biryani, curried okra, yoghurt, dessert, and masala curry with paneer so chunky you might mistake it for chicken.
It was one of our favourite bloggers, Madhu of The Urge to Wander, who introduced us to a variety of North Indian vegetarian snacks called chaat. Together we feasted on platters of deep fried goodies reminiscent of dim sum back home. I loved the combination of savoury, tangy and sweet notes on my palate – there was jaggery, tamarind, red onion and yoghurt, along with the freshness of diced tomatoes. Most of the chaat we tried also had toppings of crispy, deep-fried strands of chickpea flour. In my native Hong Kong, traditional vegetarian food uses copious amounts of tofu to mimic the texture and look of meat, but Indian cuisine does not resort to mimicry to make a vegetarian dish great.
India can be raw, pushy and in your face
While riding air-conditioned sleeper class on Indian Railways, you may swipe little roaches off your backpack and catch sight of a jet-black mouse scurrying beneath the seats. Outside a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a beggar may reach out and grab your arm for money. Upon leaving your hotel in a Tamil temple town, you might be accosted by two women holding thick folders and laminated photos. They’ll repeat the words “handicapped children, handicapped children” and threaten you in Tamil with raised voices. When you say “no” and walk away, one may even hit you on the shoulder with her folder (it happened to Bama).
Kochi, or Cochin as it is known to locals, is quite different to the serene, laid-back Kerala marketed in magazines and travel brochures. If you do end up going, expect to meet pushy rickshaw drivers and rude shop assistants. The drivers will suddenly turn hostile and insist on taking you to five or six upscale emporiums, even if you make it clear that you have no intention of buying any souvenirs. And when you gently decline the offer of a shop assistant and say “I will think about it,” they might ask you angrily, “WHY? WHY DO YOU NEED TO THINK?”
Indians speak English, just not necessarily the kind you know
Hindi speakers mix English words into their native tongue to form Hinglish, as shown by the TV commercials. One may sell a glossy blue motorbike with the tagline “Feel the Josh”, josh being Hindi for “vigour”. In another commercial, a pale, ageless mother tells her handsome and equally pale son to use a certain branded deodorant because it is “kuch special” (kuch means “something”).
A hotel in vernacular Indian English is not really a hotel but a restaurant, which explains why they are often advertised with posters of food. There are also remnants of strange, old-fashioned vocabulary from the days of the British Raj: bus stations are called ‘bus stands’; menus may have a category named ‘breakfast tiffin’ for morning snacks; a pharmacy is often labelled ‘chemist and druggist’; while a warehouse is a ‘godown’.
India likes it complicated
In the decades since independence, India has embarked on a nationwide renaming spree. The largest city, Mumbai, is a case in point. It was renamed from ‘Bombay’ in 1995, and its main railway station, Victoria Terminus, was reincarnated as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. While the new names have been adopted on an official basis, the old ones are still in widespread use. For instance, Mumbaikars still call their grand old station ‘VT’.
On this trip, Bama and I stayed in eight places that had their names changed. Let’s see if you can match the new names (left column) with their old equivalents (right column) below:
It isn’t just place names that are confusing. Imagine walking into your hotel or guesthouse and seeing a panel of up to 10 switches for one single room. Eventually you figure out that one is for the fan, another for the A/C (before you switch it on with the remote), still another for the TV, and so on. Bathrooms always have at least two switches: one for the water heater and one for the light. Sometimes you will even come across something completely random like a switch that bathes your room in an eerie green glow.
After spending the night in your alien green room, let’s say you want to hire a long-distance taxi to take you 150 kilometres to your next destination, which probably had its name changed in the last two decades. The staff at your guesthouse may ask you to pay one third up front, and then another third to the driver for fuel. You’ll also have to pay for the tolls, unless it’s been specified that they are already included in the fare. And it costs extra to cross from one state to the next, but then it might also be included too. When you ask for clarification, your driver might not have the patience or vocabulary to answer in detail.
But when it comes to talking, Indians can get straight to the point
After travelling for several months in Southeast Asia, I found the Indian manner of speech extremely direct and terse. In Thanjavur, we decided to splurge and pay to have the hotel do our laundry. The housekeeper came back with the bags of folded clothes, uttering only three words in the space of a minute. The first was “Laundry.” Then “Check”, after which we dumped the clothes on my bed to make sure they were all accounted for. The housekeeper pointed to a slip, did a classic Indian headshake and said, “Sign.” It was a very efficient use of language. I thought this way of talking would correspond to lower levels of English fluency, but even the owner of our guesthouse in Goa was surprisingly curt. When we asked him about the nearest convenience store, he took it very badly.
“Why?” The owner snapped.
Bama and I were taken aback. “Um, in case we want to buy a bottle of water, or shampoo…”
He became indignant. “But you can get water here! You have soap in your room!”
Eventually the owner relented and told us exactly where it was.
India is like a box of chocolates
Because, as Forrest Gump so famously said, you never know what you’re gonna get. The accommodation itself was an adventure from start to finish. We went from staying in a bamboo shack near Munnar, with flying cockroaches and no hot water, to the brand new InterContinental Resort in Mahabalipuram. The latter was a last-minute arrangement that came about thanks to Madhu’s ingenuity.
After getting used to homestays with paper-thin towels and cheap hotels that did not have soap or toilet paper (we brought our own), the InterContinental was pure bliss. Our room had a sophisticated lighting system, the softest toilet paper I’d touched in half a year, a freestanding bathtub, soap and shampoo from L’Occitane, all the cable TV channels we could ever wish for and plush bedding. A welcome present had been carefully left on the desk: two sets of chocolates in edible pink boxes made from icing sugar and fondant. The chocolates were crafted with a playful Indian twist, yielding flavours of rose, curry leaf, cardamom, nutmeg and star anise.
To top it all off, Madhu and her husband Ravi (the mysterious ‘R’ who occasionally crops up in her blog posts) graciously invited us to stay at their home, and even before our arrival in Chennai they showed us unparalleled Indian hospitality. Without us asking, they sent their driver to pick us up in Pondicherry and whisked us to Mahabalipuram, around 100 kilometres away.
After we settled in at the InterContinental, Ravi drove us all into town for lunch, which was a large grilled fish coated in masala; garlic and butter prawns; and an enormous portion of fried rice. Madhu and Ravi paid for our admission tickets at the Shore Temple and Chennai’s government museum (even though the foreigners’ fee is 15 times the domestic fare), took us out to try local dishes from Tamil Nadu, and cooked curries and other delicacies from their native Mangalore.
When Madhu found out that we both shared her fondness for dessert, she asked Ravi to buy chocolate cake and two tubs of ice cream after work – one of luscious sitaphal (sugar-apple) and the other exquisite chikku (sapodilla). To be honest, I don’t know how I could ever match the warm welcome and the kindness that was shown to us. Spending five days with Madhu and Ravi was the ultimate highlight of our time in India, and reason enough to return. ◊
Amazing post! It’s wonderful how you captured your observations in concise and humorous little categories. A pleasure to read, thank you!
Thank you so much, Caroline! This post in particular was a labour of love – it took a long time to get the wording right, and I wanted to represent India fairly while being truthful about my experiences there.
Some things, it seems, never change
It sounds like I’ve touched on some of India’s enduring quirks!
Laughing out loud at “I do not know if they go in front of the French consulate to give their former masters the finger.” 😀 I am actually envious of your journey James….bamboo shack with flying cockroaches and all. We have gotten far less adventurous with age and I think it is our loss.
That ‘staycation’ at the Intercontinental was a welcome splurge for us as well, we haven’t stepped out since your departure. And what a timely departure that was! Chennai is an absolute disaster zone. Not sure the city can take an mm more of rain. The airport is completely inundated and closed until the 6th. Limited emergency flights will operate from a naval base nearby. The forecasts don’t bode well for Madurai and surrounding areas either. Consider it a blessing that you were denied a longer visa!
I don’t know, Madhu… apart from the standards in accommodation, the kinds of places you are visiting seem no less adventurous! The envy goes both ways because I sometimes find myself wishing we had a greater degree of comfort. 😉
Bama was just saying how you had a sixth sense about the monsoon. We were thinking of spending the first few days in Chennai until you advised us to head straight to the west coast. We saw footage of the flooded streets and airport from Al Jazeera 15 minutes ago and it was shocking to think that we were there just a few days back!
I actually miss Chennai. After five months of tropical heat both of us are really feeling the bite of winter here in Nepal. It doesn’t help that the guesthouses have no heating.
I loved India! You should have gone to Varanasi (Benares) too 😉
I decided to concentrate on the south and save the Hindi Belt for next time. One month is far too short for India…
This is true! I travelled to India in 2013 and I have to return in 2014! 😉 Once North and the other South… But I will tell you, North is too much hard… An interesting experience but hard!
Wonderful write-up. Sounds like quite the adventure. Makes me want to visit…
India was a real roller coaster ride. I couldn’t really sum up the experience in a short post!
You did a great job and I am sure there will be more to come b
Beautiful writing. You have a natural way with words, and I applaud you.
Much appreciated, Kiran. And thanks for ploughing through all 2,000 words.
It was a pleasure.
James, I would like to congratulate you in being able to present the reality of Indian cities in truest form. Your post isnt unnecessarily sweet in not criticizing the country where required and your use of humor to point out the bad practices is amusing.
I am glad you liked the Indian cities and lifestyle. I have a personal local connection (Madhu) would have definitely helped you in getting insight into local culture and places which you might have missed otherwise. India is truly a place of diversity. Be it food, architecture or people, one can never get enough of it 🙂
Thank you very much, Ankur – that is a major compliment! I would have wanted this post to hold up to the scrutiny of an Indian native, and I’m so glad it did. The humorous element (and also the general approach I took) was inspired by Jeff of Planet Bell. He is definitely the funniest travel blogger I know. 🙂
Isn’t India grand?! So much contrast, the best of life, the worst of life. I loved it and would go back in a heartbeat. Don not so much. Your excellent and thoughtful account of it took me right back there. We spent time in Tamil Nadu, and in Pondy, as well as Rajasthan, Delhi, Agra and Varanasi. Loved Varanasi above all. I could match up five of your eight place names.
Have fun in Nepal!
Thank you, Alison! I think I started reading your blog some time after your latest post on India, but given your love of street life and spirituality, I just knew you would love it there. Part of me wishes I made the effort to get a longer visa so I could have time to explore Rajasthan and other areas of the north as you did. Our month in the south felt surprisingly short!
What a delight to read…you take us to so many experiences in this post. I’ve always been nervous about India and not sure why. Your post shares the good with the not so good – did you ever need to use those pills your mom bought?
It may have to do with India’s reputation for lower food safety standards and the potential dangers women face in public. When we met Madhu she told us she would never walk outside alone at night.
I did use those pills but only at the beginning and end of this leg. Funny thing is, I arrived in India with a sick stomach that began on our last day in Myanmar, but it cleared up soon after I switched to a wholesome vegetarian diet. I had no further issues for the next 2-3 weeks until we ate at a rather fancy restaurant that used many raw vegetables in their dishes. Luckily it wasn’t anything serious.
Your excellent post gives us a hint of the great complexity and contradictions of India. I like how you travel with an open mind and just because you have a less than positive experience with one person or place, you don’t nail that to the entire country. Your wonderful writing style allows you to write about a not so nice experience in a nice way.
The angle of the photo under “India Likes it Complicated” creates an especially intriguing view!
What a trip you and Bama are having! I look forward to the next adventure.
Thank you for the kind words, Marilyn. India is a real paradox, but that could easily describe many countries in Asia, if not the world! It helps to put some distance between the unpleasant experiences and the actual writing – I’m sure this post would have come out very differently if I had penned it straight after those events. But writing out of anger, however justified, is never a good idea.
Reading this makes my heart race! I so appreciate your balanced view and all the interesting tidbits you tell us about.
I’m glad you enjoyed it so much, Lael. I wasn’t expecting this to make anyone’s heart race so your comment was a pleasant surprise!
This was such a fun post. I have not been to India yet, and it’s a great gap in my travel history. I often travel alone and enjoy it, but some of your comments make me think this is not the place to do that. (Of course, I’ve heard that elsewhere also, but just some small attitudes and actions can make or break a solo trip for me.) I think it’s so awesome that you met up with Madhu! The idea of meeting in person a fellow blogger who you have come to “know” online is just so fun! On that note, let me know if you and Bama ever want to see Chicago right!
That’s so kind, Lex – I’ll have to take you up on that offer! India was crazy and frustrating at times, but we left the country with so many wonderful memories. And meeting Madhu in person was a bit like catching up with an old friend!
I think it is possible to travel alone in India, but as a woman you’d have to take extra care and keep your wits about you. It is less of an issue in the south though (which is generally more educated and mellow).
I should definetely Show this artice my friend, because she would like to go to India but her parents won’t let her go. Maybe she convince them… Thank you for this article! 😀
You’re welcome. 🙂 It will help if she finds another friend (or two) to go with her… my own parents were a little less worried knowing that I wasn’t travelling solo!
Okay, that is a great idea! I will tell her! Thank you so much!! 😀
Maybe you also want to look at my blog? littlegreenraven.wordpress.com ;9
This is a great article! It definitely captivated me into wanting to go visit India.
Thanks! India is not everyone’s cup of tea, but I think people should try and visit at least once!
india seems interesting ya
Yes. Interesting doesn’t even begin to describe it.
Your experience of India is what most people feel – a mixture of love, hate, confusion, comedy and tragedy. Do you want to return for more, or are you done with it?
I always felt like I was in two places at once – there are con-artists, hustlers, vendors, taxi drivers, touts, etc, that seem to always want to rip you off and hassle you, but the regular people were so nice, kind, helpful and hospitable. It can be hard to get past the people who are in your face trying to sell you something or rip you off.
I failed your city name change quiz and I went to a few places on that list.
You summed it up perfectly, Jeff. I left India knowing that I would return someday, but honestly I don’t think I could travel there for two months like you and Kristi did.
And Nepal has been such a breath of fresh air – I now understand why travellers flee India to come here. It is gentler, friendlier, less filthy, less in-your-face, and the people actually smile (I was struck by how most Indians we encountered were so surly).
I must admit that I have been prejudiced towards India in the past because I only heard and saw negative things about it. But frequent traveling has shown me that places are rarely what we expect them to be — sometimes it’s better, sometimes it’s underwhelming. I love that you recognized the good, the bad, and the gray areas in India. While I definitely won’t visit India solo, I’d like to go someday and experience it for myself. Thanks for the lovely post. 🙂
You’re welcome. 🙂 India is quite possibly the craziest country I have been to so far, but I don’t regret going at all. It was such an adventure!
Its fun to read your post. Being Indians we have come to take few things as granted, but can be a cultural shock for somebody coming from a different culture. You writing is quite visual and touches all the aspects of life. For me India is eventful, full of colors and a real taste of freedom. Oh yeah the Hinglish, Engdi, Marlish, Tamlish ..:) we have all the bizarre combinations of languages. Happy Exploring !!!
I’m glad to know you enjoyed this – India was quite the culture shock in certain places. That said, it was always an adventure with surprises (both good and bad) at every corner!
Wow, this is a very interesting post. I’ve never been to India and this was helpful to know what I might expect if I have the opportunity to go there.
India was a true assault on the senses – I think this post was my attempt to portray it in a realistic and honest light. Thanks for reading!
I think you accomplished your goal!
Hahahaha.. my country is great.. loved to see this post..
Next time do visit more places.. u will surely get a great experience 🙂
I’d love to travel across the Hindi Belt next time… I know it will be a hugely different experience compared to the south! Thanks for dropping by. 🙂
Poignant, funny, adventurous and your keen observation make this post so engaging to read. I hope you visit India again.
Sorry for taking so long to reply, Hariom! And thank you for the kind words. I’m sure I will be back in India at some point – there are still so many places around the country that I haven’t been to and would love to see (Ladakh and Rajasthan come to mind).