Feb 2
Brno Cathedral from Špilberk Hill
In Brno, there’s a reason why the cathedral bells announce the noon an hour early. Back in the 17th century, when virtually all of Europe was embroiled in the Thirty Years’ War, an invading Swedish army swept across the lands of the Czech Crown. Olomouc, the historical capital of Moravia, was occupied and left in ruins; Prague would eventually fall in 1648. Read more
Jan 25
The first time we crossed into Eastern Europe, it was on a train from Vienna to Prague. We had just completed a road trip across Switzerland, spent a few days soaking up the magnificent Austrian capital, and now it was time to check out a city known for its dreamy spires and pastel-coloured beauty. Read more
Jan 10
The Olza River, marking the international border
It’s New Year’s Eve, 2008, and we are in the northeastern corner of the Czech Republic. Along with my mother and sister I’ve made the trip to one of the country’s lesser-known regions, located right along the Polish frontier. This pocket of Eastern Europe, I am told, is called Cieszyn Silesia. Read more
Oct 22
In my best Euskera, I cautiously approach the bartender. “Aupa! Bi patxaran.” He nods, scooping up two glassfuls of ice and filling them with liquor tinted the bright red of a children’s cough syrup. Night has fallen and we are bar-hopping along a dimly-lit stretch of the old city, beautifully unassuming and devoid of menus in French and English. According to Jordi, my friend and personal guide, this is the most Basque street in town. Read more
Aug 2
Select 7 of your favourite posts in different categories, and tag up to 5 of your fellow bloggers to do the same.
It may sound like a chain letter, but Tripbase’s “My 7 Links” project is a call for bloggers to showcase their best entries and connect with other writers. Two weeks ago I had my first glimpse on spunky, hilarious Candice Does The World; it was a thoughtful recap on her two years as a travel blogger.
Over the weekend, Debra from Bagni di Lucca and Beyond has kindly given me a nomination. I feel like this is a belated one-year anniversary celebration of Plus Ultra, and a look at how far it has come. Read more
Aug 1
For most of my time in Spain I was loathe to attend a bullfight. Especially after hearing the experiences of my friend Christina in Ciudad Rodrigo – where they do bull runs and bullfights for Carnival – I found little to no appeal in what I saw as an unforgiving blood sport.
But my Spanish history and culture teacher was adamant. “Even if you don’t agree with it,” he would tell us, “you should see it once before making a judgment.” At the time we were learning all about tauromaquia, the umbrella term for everything surrounding this deeply controversial spectacle. Read more
Jul 19
When I’m jetlagged, one of my favourite ways of passing the time is to dig up some of my older travel pictures. Exactly three years ago I was spending the summer in London, working as an intern at a multinational firm and living across the road from the spires of St. Pancras. Before I left I decided to take advantage of the long days, sprinting around the city (via the underground) to some of its most recognisable sites. Read more
Jul 14
It’s easy to eat well in Salamanca. Whether it’s bar-hopping on Calle Van Dyck, the best tapas street in town, or sinking your teeth into the local jamón, this student city is an affordable stopping point on a gastronomic tour of central Spain. The local dishes can be heavy, but don’t let that stop you from buying a slice of chorizo-filled hornazo or digging into a tender chunk of grilled veal.
After nine months as a resident salmantino, I’ve drawn up a quick list of some of my favourite places to eat and drink – gratuitous photos included. Read more
Jun 29
It seemed like the perfect weekend escapade: a small reunion of high school friends, an annual fiesta and a valid excuse to return to beautiful, sunny Córdoba. But when we showed up late that Friday night, eager to kick off Las Cruces de Mayo, it was the sound of heavy rain that greeted us at the train station. Having gone through a bit of a travel hiccup in Madrid, I was almost too tired to feel disappointment. Read more
Jun 22
The two men ahead of me are hesitant. Even after lifting the lid on the cool, delicious concoction, they slowly shake their heads and turn away. I am at a horchata stand in Valencia’s Plaça de l’Ajuntament and the vendor is giving me a stupefied look. “They don’t know what they are missing out on… people think it’s milk, but horchata is so much more than that!” Read more
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